Kashmir 28th - 18th June

Srinagar does not seem real: a busy town full of soliders, check points, bunkers, razor wire and then you have the lake: clear waters, lilly pads and lotus flowers, peace and tranquility, eagles and other birds everywhere, people welcoming us to Kashmir. We arrived at our houseboat and it's like a T.V. set from a 50's British soap, Hilda Ogden would be proud - no set of ducks on the wall tho - a disappointment yet, the ceiling was carved cedar an very intracate. On the boat we where waited on hand and foot (felt a little uncomforable at first about this), we lazed away drinking the Kashmiri's pride and joy - saffron tea which was very tasty.

We sat with the other two guests and exchanged stories of how we arrived on this boat, all three the same. Scam No.3: an america lady appears in the office in Delhi just after our arrival, she tells us she uses this office to make all her travel arrangements and today (at 6am for us!) she has come to book a train ticket. She leaves the office not booking the train ticket after telling us the glorious times she has experienced in Kashmir - bait and trapped. All three of us amazing!

We did very little on the boat but eat and drink and read and sleep. Meals became predictable but enjoyable, omelete with toast and jam, potato or cauliflower or cheese curry one night we had chicken. We supplimented our diet with fish David caught from the lake, they where small but yummy - apart from when they encouraged us to eat the heads too, ok if they where very small and crispy fish but the bigger ones eyeballs weren't dry and crispy but squishy and tasted of lake water - eewww!

We left this house boat full relaxed, resisting all family members of the owner who popped round to see if we wanted and photos, postcards, gems, jewelery and shawls, on a bus to Leh. Bound for freedom after feeling like prisoners in paradise on the boat.