Feb 2012 - New York

Sauraha 13th - October

The bus dropped us at Tadi Bazaar, wet bags and all we tout dogded a rickshaw to Sauraha. The 6km journey was our first proper glimpse of rural Nepal, absolutely beautiful, so tropical and lush and green. The sky is blue and the rice fields are turning yellow - wow!

Our base it at the edge of Chitwan National Park. We spent the evening relaxing watching the sun go down over the park on a sandy riverside speck. We enjoyed a good 10 day stay here and discovered the numerous elephant stables, walks, local fish dishes (catfish) and the local Tharu culture. The night skies where lit with fire flies and bright electrical storms illuminating in different colours in the clouds.

The two day jungle walk started with a morning canoe ride where we saw loads of birds, gharial and mugger crocs (the latter will eat you!). David was very uneasy in the dug out canoe and didnt relax much - bless. The shear noise of the place is what first pounds your senses, next the sights then, the smells. The guides were amazing at spotting stuff insect, birds, monkeys, pigs, orchids, deer, butterflies, rhinos and tigers! Our safety talk was this if they shout 1)rhino - run zigzag to the nearest tree and climb it, 2) tiger - well theres not much you can do really just stand your ground and dont get eaten, you can climb trees but they can jump as far as you can climb - quicker! 3) bear - dont run, stand your ground, you will have to fight, they go for the face with their long claws and then run. Joy, at this point I have a small voice asking me what the hell I am doing here especially when we hear about Makhunda and Dinesh's encounters with the above. This voice screams at me when we are in the thickest and most densest part of the park - the grasslands, not your english lawn by any means.

On the morning of the second day we saw our first rhino, we had the river behind us and so where 'safe'! After Makunda and Dinesh examined the morning water hole politics (tracks) they found tiger tracks with a kill. We followed these tracks deep into the jungle thicket, with the 'what the hell are you doing' voice, but the moment was just too compleling, we'd lost sense of the possible maneater we wanted to see. We didnt see the tiger as we had to leg it to a safe distance, the air around us rumbled with its growl, we'd got to close.
Makhunda took us to a Tharu village, it was a great opportunity to chat with them over the coming of electric, what they grow and when, who they live with, how they build their house and why they feed cannabis to their cows (good for stomach probs) with Makhunda as interpreter.

The first day we walked 25 Km and the 2nd 35km, not surprisingly we where both kaput on return and marked by leeches. An absolutely brilliant we will remember. Makhunda is highly reccomended!!!! g_aryal505@yahoo.com is his email.

Rafting

After a few days resting decided to move onto Kathmandu via Royal Chitwan National Park. Thought it would be fun to raft there on the Seti River, a nice sedate river without the pollution of the most popular river. We shared our trip with 2 isreali girls. Dropped off at a bridge we squeezed our stuff into not so dry bags on the beach, donned our lifejackets and helmets, issued with a paddle and off we went! The rapids where gentle, at first and then one of the two guides who where with us started to bail out the water that was ankle deep. Paddling was hard work and sometimes when we were told to paddle there was no water there - we were surfing the waves! We got a chance to swim in the river which was a sureal experience, you could feel the currents through your legs like seaweed and I also stubbed my toe on several massive boulders from below - needless to say I did not let go of the boat in these warm waters.

Lunch and dinner where eaten heartily on beautiful beaches, the first day was great fun and the scenery was spectacular. A man appeared from nowhere offering beer, the four of us accepted and sat them to cool in the river.
When we decided to go to bed we discovered the guides had put out tent up right outside a ricepaddy overflow - dur! Fortunatly the tents where waterproof, less fortunate for the guides they got wet - they where sleeping under the raft.

The rain in the morning started at 6 and didnt stop till 10! The river had swollen over night and had changed from a pearly blue to a muddy brown. A new 'driver' had arrived during the night, he was taking over from here as the rapids get more - technical, comforting. This was where we had our nightmare senario - dumdass (driver) starts to show off and gets us caught on a rock in a rapid and the boat starts to fill with water, I nearly get thrown out the boat by the power of the water and we all have to get on to a rock to reboard the sinking ship!

During this commotion we lost two paddles, further down the river people had found them at the egde and we beached up to collect them. We shouldn't really of been surprised to find out that fornominal baksheesh was expected for them and that theprice negioation would take about 30mins - each paddle! David was going mad "if this was england I'd have smacked him!" Kind thanks its not and a scene was avoided.

Not a terrific first rafting expereince, especailly when in the last two rapids one guy came to the front specifically to pull the front up over the waves, we bailed water again from up to our knees - this cant be right, something tells me we where a little overloaded for this trip down river.
However we had excellent humour and company and more importantly got to Sauraha.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Started from Nayapal which was a few houses on a narrow road at 08:30 down to the river and Birethanti where we encountered the Moaists who asked for a donation with obvious implications of refusal. We haggled and managed to get a discount which was clearly marked on our receipt. It was hot even this early in the morning and the views, vegetation and sense of adventure filled us with energy and good spirits.

Walked to Chimrong for breakfast then on through tropical jungle and a relentless steep climb to our destination Ghandruk. We stayed in Snowland G.H. at the top of the village which had stunning views of the mountains we were heading for. When we arrived we were exhausted, breating heavily with sweat running into our eyes and dripping from our fingertips. It was a lovely traditional wooden two story building with tiny doors and windows from which we could see Annapurna South, Hunchuli and Machhapachhre Mountains.

Next day left Ghandruk (1939m) as the sun was rising down into the valley through mossey woods for 2 hours then up the other side and over the next ridge. Passed through terreced fields of rice maze and millett towards Chomrong. Sun was blazing again and we stopped at lunch time and stayed the night.

As the nights soon became dark and the trekking was tough we went to bed early and rose at dawn for the whole trip. Next day steep walk down into the valley then and equally steep walk up to Sinuwa (2340m) for breakfast. Getting up early also meant we walked for at least 2/3 hours without the sun blazing down on us. Moved on through the shade of the forrest up to Khuldigar (2540m) then down again to Bamboo (2335m). Through bamboo forrest to Dovan (2505m) for 13:00 for lunch and it started to rain so we decided to stay for the rest of the day and regain some energy. Getting colder in the evening and feeling tired and legs are aching. Looking forward to assalt on M.B.C.(3700m)tomorrow and advised that avalanche risk is low -thank god!! Passing through the wet forrest there are leeches everywhere and to Tracy's delight I got one on my back.

Arrived at Himalaya (2920m) for breakfast next day then on through the valley following the river and past avalanche area to Deurali (3230m) in full sunshine. Tracy suffering with blister on heel even though boots are well worn in!! Started to feel the effects of altitude from this point on so we took it slowly. Could feel the chill off the mountains and were getting tired with the constant uphill but the view of M.B.C. kept us going. Arrived for lunch and hug stuff out to dry before the sun disappeared behind cloud. As the clouds rolled in the temperature plummeted so sat in the lodge with blankets around us.

Slept well and set off for Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) late but had clear skys all the way. Being so close to 8000m+ mountains takes your breath away and brings a tier to your eye - cannot explian the feelins. Met Sebastian who climbed with Robert in Ley so had a great time reminising whilst trying to keep warm in the evening. Tracy feeling very cold and a horrible weepy sty in her eye and both have dull headache. Up at 05:00 for sunrise in the freezing clear moring - amazing and very special expience never to be forgotton. Then the walk down - it semed so easy!! After about 3 hours we both went through the pain barrier both physically and mentally cos we knew it was a long way back. After the high comes the low but we pushed on and walked for 10 hours until dusk and arrived at Siniwa further than we had expected. Sleep came quickly as we were totally spent.

Next day into blazing hot sunshine for most of the day to the hot springs of Jhinu Danda to give our worn out bodies a well deserved soak. Then onto Himal Pani for dusk to a wounderful small family lodge traditionally run and obviously very few visitors - it was great. Next day we were stopped by Moaists at Landruk but we had the receipt so passed through at no extra charge. Onto Deurali through leech infested forrest with deffning insect noise, banna trees and lush green plants in abundance. Really hot and leeches now a nuisance until we arrived at Dhampus (1650m)ready for the allegid wounderful sunrise accross the Annapurna range.
Cloudy morning so walked for 3 hours to road a caught a bus back to Pokhara.

Pokhara

Dropped at the grotty border town of Sonauli by our shared jeep to walk up to Indian immegration to officially depart India then 100meters up the road to a very laid back border crossing to Nepal. Everyone shouting 'welcome to Nepal' from the queueing trucks paid our $30 and we were in! Booked into a small guest house who arranged bus to Pokhara and accommodation for tomorrow. Had a decent beer at long last and bed.

Up at 05:00 to meet the small local bus which went all over the place looking for passengers for about an hour before leaving the border town. Arrived in Pokhara at 15:00 where a man was waiting with a sign for 'Mr david' and we were wisked away to our hotel.

Pokhara (884m)has a lakeside tourist town from where you can view the amazing Annapurna Mountain range. We were both knackered and dirty from the journey so showered and hit the town for a large steak. Met Dafna in the town form Kassardevi then home knackered.

Took it easy for the next few days finding our way round and seeing how things worked. Realised how much the journey had taken out of us. It struck us how expensive Pokhara is and all the shops have got together to fix tourist prices. We hired bikes to go further out of the town - went to Devi Falls and cave opposite, Damside and the non tourist part of town which was much cheaper.

Pokhara is a really beautiful place and very relaxing but we were desperate to get to the mountains and waited for the clouds to disappear. On day six we decided the time was right to go - the skys were crystal clear and we had read all the books!

Kasar Devi

Kasar Devi is a short jeep ride from Almora and we soon learnt was the new Isreali mecca! We have only learnt from this place from isreali's and so weren't surprised on arrival that it was full of isreali's.

Here was chance for us to catch up on the lack of cooking we'd done since away. Our Guesthouse was more of an apartment, we had a hot shower, sink and gas hob in our 'studio' room. The view here is also something else, being slightly higher than Almora we had 360 degree panaramic views of the Himalayas (when not shouded with cloud). Michel was not the only person we knew from previous destinations. While here we where fortunate to make new friends to enjoy home cooked food, whiskey, music and football on TV with. Thankyou all guys our stay here was extremely enjoyable. David and I even mastered making Shakshuka! I did try to learn hindi here but I'm afraid I felt my teacher was crap and so had to give him the elbow.

During our stay here we visited Binsar in company of Michel and Abi, were we scaled 11km up and back down through a Nature Reserve rich in flora and fauna. We where lucky enough to have a troop of Langur monkeys rattle through the trees over our heads - magic. We also had the most expensive Thali ever so we made sure we got at least 3 refills!

This trip was our first hitch hike experience as usual we find in India when you don't know where your going the locals are more than helpful in getting you to your destination, in this case it mean't at the end of our share taxi line the driver flagged down a tatta truck and blunded us in - we returned this way also, being four we felt it was a safe and exciting alternative to walking - even if the driving is scarey. If your familiar with these beasts you'll know how highly decorated they are and they're sure the same inside, all manner of jaggley, plastic and holy decor jiggling as we challanged the lumpy road.

Jageshwar was also impressive, Michel (David was ill) explained that it was what the tomb raider place is like in Cambodia. Its a complex of 124 temples all sizes with stone masioners repairing the relics, to the babas frustration we where more keen on watch this than parting with our cash for puja.

Almora 2nd - 7th Septmber

Local bus, easy ride to Almora even tho taxi guys wanted to take us to Almora for 8 bloody hundred!! I told the one guy to go whistle for 800, that really tickled David and stunned the driver. I lost/forgot my second umbrella of the trip. The weather is better already now, even tho it did pour the first day we arrived.

Almora (1646m) predates the Raj, 1560, and so has fantastic intricate cobbled alleys laced with carved wood and stone buildings. Its a major market town and is full of the excited bustle of new purchases - great window shopping! There is an Ashram here that Ghandi came too and serves as a local museum to the guy.

Another local festival!! Town was packed, a prossesion of loud and boisterious men carrying a god over there heads seemed to be the climax of the two day event. We witnessed a mobile tattooist brandasing people with ugly tats of reliogious thing, daggers and english spellings of names. The needle was the same for every man, the needle was powered by a car battery the whole thought of it madness and god knows what he uses as ink!

Kausani was a good over night stay, we where very luck to have an excellent view of the Himalayas while there the monsoon weather is clearing yet the clouds have yet to disperse fully - Ghandi came here too. Our drop of point in Almora from Kausani was not as expected, the bottom end of town but it lead us thro a lovely kind of surburbia come village where people where thrashing millet, drying chilli's on roofs and shouting at us for looking at there Buffalo, well one mean old lady, most everyone else was entreaded to see tourists strayed from the town. In Almora David fell in love with Indian sweet - he'd eat at least 5 a day!

I dyed my hair here with henna, its a bit red, Davids not too keen, I guess it'll calm soon - i hope! Again no phots they where eaten by the virus.