Annapurna Base Camp Trek
Started from Nayapal which was a few houses on a narrow road at 08:30 down to the river and Birethanti where we encountered the Moaists who asked for a donation with obvious implications of refusal. We haggled and managed to get a discount which was clearly marked on our receipt. It was hot even this early in the morning and the views, vegetation and sense of adventure filled us with energy and good spirits.
Walked to Chimrong for breakfast then on through tropical jungle and a relentless steep climb to our destination Ghandruk. We stayed in Snowland G.H. at the top of the village which had stunning views of the mountains we were heading for. When we arrived we were exhausted, breating heavily with sweat running into our eyes and dripping from our fingertips. It was a lovely traditional wooden two story building with tiny doors and windows from which we could see Annapurna South, Hunchuli and Machhapachhre Mountains.
Next day left Ghandruk (1939m) as the sun was rising down into the valley through mossey woods for 2 hours then up the other side and over the next ridge. Passed through terreced fields of rice maze and millett towards Chomrong. Sun was blazing again and we stopped at lunch time and stayed the night.
As the nights soon became dark and the trekking was tough we went to bed early and rose at dawn for the whole trip. Next day steep walk down into the valley then and equally steep walk up to Sinuwa (2340m) for breakfast. Getting up early also meant we walked for at least 2/3 hours without the sun blazing down on us. Moved on through the shade of the forrest up to Khuldigar (2540m) then down again to Bamboo (2335m). Through bamboo forrest to Dovan (2505m) for 13:00 for lunch and it started to rain so we decided to stay for the rest of the day and regain some energy. Getting colder in the evening and feeling tired and legs are aching. Looking forward to assalt on M.B.C.(3700m)tomorrow and advised that avalanche risk is low -thank god!! Passing through the wet forrest there are leeches everywhere and to Tracy's delight I got one on my back.
Arrived at Himalaya (2920m) for breakfast next day then on through the valley following the river and past avalanche area to Deurali (3230m) in full sunshine. Tracy suffering with blister on heel even though boots are well worn in!! Started to feel the effects of altitude from this point on so we took it slowly. Could feel the chill off the mountains and were getting tired with the constant uphill but the view of M.B.C. kept us going. Arrived for lunch and hug stuff out to dry before the sun disappeared behind cloud. As the clouds rolled in the temperature plummeted so sat in the lodge with blankets around us.
Slept well and set off for Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) late but had clear skys all the way. Being so close to 8000m+ mountains takes your breath away and brings a tier to your eye - cannot explian the feelins. Met Sebastian who climbed with Robert in Ley so had a great time reminising whilst trying to keep warm in the evening. Tracy feeling very cold and a horrible weepy sty in her eye and both have dull headache. Up at 05:00 for sunrise in the freezing clear moring - amazing and very special expience never to be forgotton. Then the walk down - it semed so easy!! After about 3 hours we both went through the pain barrier both physically and mentally cos we knew it was a long way back. After the high comes the low but we pushed on and walked for 10 hours until dusk and arrived at Siniwa further than we had expected. Sleep came quickly as we were totally spent.
Next day into blazing hot sunshine for most of the day to the hot springs of Jhinu Danda to give our worn out bodies a well deserved soak. Then onto Himal Pani for dusk to a wounderful small family lodge traditionally run and obviously very few visitors - it was great. Next day we were stopped by Moaists at Landruk but we had the receipt so passed through at no extra charge. Onto Deurali through leech infested forrest with deffning insect noise, banna trees and lush green plants in abundance. Really hot and leeches now a nuisance until we arrived at Dhampus (1650m)ready for the allegid wounderful sunrise accross the Annapurna range.
Cloudy morning so walked for 3 hours to road a caught a bus back to Pokhara.
Walked to Chimrong for breakfast then on through tropical jungle and a relentless steep climb to our destination Ghandruk. We stayed in Snowland G.H. at the top of the village which had stunning views of the mountains we were heading for. When we arrived we were exhausted, breating heavily with sweat running into our eyes and dripping from our fingertips. It was a lovely traditional wooden two story building with tiny doors and windows from which we could see Annapurna South, Hunchuli and Machhapachhre Mountains.
Next day left Ghandruk (1939m) as the sun was rising down into the valley through mossey woods for 2 hours then up the other side and over the next ridge. Passed through terreced fields of rice maze and millett towards Chomrong. Sun was blazing again and we stopped at lunch time and stayed the night.
As the nights soon became dark and the trekking was tough we went to bed early and rose at dawn for the whole trip. Next day steep walk down into the valley then and equally steep walk up to Sinuwa (2340m) for breakfast. Getting up early also meant we walked for at least 2/3 hours without the sun blazing down on us. Moved on through the shade of the forrest up to Khuldigar (2540m) then down again to Bamboo (2335m). Through bamboo forrest to Dovan (2505m) for 13:00 for lunch and it started to rain so we decided to stay for the rest of the day and regain some energy. Getting colder in the evening and feeling tired and legs are aching. Looking forward to assalt on M.B.C.(3700m)tomorrow and advised that avalanche risk is low -thank god!! Passing through the wet forrest there are leeches everywhere and to Tracy's delight I got one on my back.
Arrived at Himalaya (2920m) for breakfast next day then on through the valley following the river and past avalanche area to Deurali (3230m) in full sunshine. Tracy suffering with blister on heel even though boots are well worn in!! Started to feel the effects of altitude from this point on so we took it slowly. Could feel the chill off the mountains and were getting tired with the constant uphill but the view of M.B.C. kept us going. Arrived for lunch and hug stuff out to dry before the sun disappeared behind cloud. As the clouds rolled in the temperature plummeted so sat in the lodge with blankets around us.
Slept well and set off for Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) late but had clear skys all the way. Being so close to 8000m+ mountains takes your breath away and brings a tier to your eye - cannot explian the feelins. Met Sebastian who climbed with Robert in Ley so had a great time reminising whilst trying to keep warm in the evening. Tracy feeling very cold and a horrible weepy sty in her eye and both have dull headache. Up at 05:00 for sunrise in the freezing clear moring - amazing and very special expience never to be forgotton. Then the walk down - it semed so easy!! After about 3 hours we both went through the pain barrier both physically and mentally cos we knew it was a long way back. After the high comes the low but we pushed on and walked for 10 hours until dusk and arrived at Siniwa further than we had expected. Sleep came quickly as we were totally spent.
Next day into blazing hot sunshine for most of the day to the hot springs of Jhinu Danda to give our worn out bodies a well deserved soak. Then onto Himal Pani for dusk to a wounderful small family lodge traditionally run and obviously very few visitors - it was great. Next day we were stopped by Moaists at Landruk but we had the receipt so passed through at no extra charge. Onto Deurali through leech infested forrest with deffning insect noise, banna trees and lush green plants in abundance. Really hot and leeches now a nuisance until we arrived at Dhampus (1650m)ready for the allegid wounderful sunrise accross the Annapurna range.
Cloudy morning so walked for 3 hours to road a caught a bus back to Pokhara.
posted by David at 6:38 am
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